Finding classic Jewish deli food in Evanston was an impossible task before last summer. Evanstonians craving a pastrami reuben or matzo ball soup had limited options – either venture to Kaufman’s in Skokie or beg their local Jewish grandma to make it for them.
This all changed on July 3, 2024, when longtime friends and business partners Jack DeMar – owner of local restaurants Pono Ono and Picnic – Kiki Eliopoulos and Eric Kogan opened Mensch’s Deli on the bustling Chicago Avenue in downtown Evanston.
But a deli was not their original plan.
The trio initially had an idea to open their own bagel shop, after noticing the lack of locally-owned bagel shops in Evanston. They tested the concept by running a pop-up bagel stand supplied by Skokie’s New York Bagel and Bialy out of DeMar’s restaurant, Picnic, for eight weeks in spring 2023. It quickly became an enormous success.
“We had lines out the door, and it got a lot of buzz in Evanston press,” quoted DeMar.
In April 2023, an article in the Evanston RoundTable read, “If you’ve been hankering for a crusty bagel and a creamy schmear, look no further than Mensch’s,” and The Daily Northwestern reported that “Many students flocked to Picnic to grab a New York-style bagel.”
The pop-up’s success attracted the attention of shopfront landlords in the area. Kogan, DeMar and Eliopoulos first looked for a small venue where they could sell bagels and pastries from a limited menu, similar to their pop-up, but after failing to find a small enough space, they set their sights higher: a classic, full-menu Jewish deli.
Their decision was inspired by the popularity of their pop-up as well as the closure of two long standing Evanston diners – Clarke’s in 2023 and Golden Olympic Restaurant in 2021. With fewer available options left for Evanston residents to get local diner and deli food, the three future founders knew they had the opportunity to bring something unique back to the community. In the summer of 2023 they purchased the property that previously held Golden Olympic and, after a year of planning and construction, opened their doors to the Evanston public.
The community’s enthusiasm was immediately apparent. “[We] opened and it was just like a tsunami,” recounts DeMar.
Evanstonians of all ages flocked to Mensch’s in droves, eager to try the latkes, reubens, bagel sandwiches and abundance of other delicious items the menu has to offer. More important to the owners than making great food, however, was creating a place that felt familiar and welcoming.
While visiting famous delis in New York City before Mensch’s construction, the three friends were struck by the feeling of familiarity that permeated historic locations like Barney Greengrass and 2nd Ave Deli. Although Mensch’s would lack the history of these businesses, they committed to trying to bring the same sense of comfort and nostalgia. They covered the restaurant’s pillars with what DeMar describes as “wallpaper you might see at your grandma’s house;” they decorated the walls with tiles and countless black-and-white photos of their families; they installed brown wooden booths and tabletops with aluminum edging. Kogen, Eliopoulos and DeMar didn’t want a “modern take” on a deli – they just wanted a deli. And their approach worked.
“People are bringing in their families, their kids, their parents, their grandparents, so there is that sense of community familiarity already. You can’t buy that,” says DeMar, proudly.
Mensch’s carefully curated environment appeals to all Evanston residents, from grandparents to ETHS students.
“I like the vibe in there. It’s kind of retro-ish. I think it’s a lot different than any other place,” remarks senior Tyler Ng.
Going forward, Eliopoulos, DeMar and Kogan plan to add a deli counter where customers can order coleslaw, lox, bagels, paper-wrapped sandwiches and other traditional deli foods in larger quantities, extend their hours – currently from 8 AM – 3 PM every day – for dinner service and promote their catering services. But, after a hectic first two months, they’re taking their time.
“[We’re] making sure we do everything right, as opposed to everything all at once,” comments DeMar.
In a city full of fantastic restaurants, Mensch’s stands out for its dedicated and ambitious staff, warm and nostalgic atmosphere and unique cultural contribution.
